This is the second post of the series 'Badami beyond the four caves '. Read part 1 here Part 1
Whether it is Hampi or Badami Ruins are magnetic. They pull us towards them and enthralls. May be the huge spaces they provide to our
imaginative eyes, make us to visualize the beauty and glory of the very place. We will be lost in love with our imagination. Badami fort is one such skeleton of the past. I kept on filling flesh and life and enjoyed the walk thoroughly.
View of Badami town and malegitti shivalaya from the watch tower |
Temple and fort view from the watch tower |
From the watch tower we could see many structures. My guide clarified them as granaries. We walk through the silent rocks to
see granaries and treasuries used during Muslim rulers. Granaries were hollow
and well secured with a small opening.
Granary |
Then we reach a place full remnants of a building which were said to
be the ruins of sandlewood palace. It was burnt hundreds of years back.There is nothing much left intact in this
place except the
underground storage.
Remnants of Palace |
Next to it is a beautiful temple. I recognize
this is the same temple I saw it from the canon location. Its windows are so different
from each other. Looking at the remnants I could imagine a gorgeous temple
which once stood and worshiped by the royal family. They call this temple as Upper Shivalaya. This temple is constructed out of stone. It is dedicated to Shiva. Only sanctum remains on top of the rocky hill. It is one of the oldest temples of the region I was told.
Window or jalandra |
Upper Shivalaya |
Few meters away there is a Darga still worshipped
and there is a temple next to the Darga making it a harmonious place for both
Hindu and Muslims.
Darga |
Pointing to a deep rocks separated by a meter my guide explains that the place was used for many Bollywood shootings. It was once used as a tunnel to escape.
Shooting spot for movies |
Panoramic view from the fort |
We walk further. In the horizon is a series
of rocky structures giving the feeling
of natural fort. I was lost to understand which is the man built fort and which
is natural.After a big round of the fort we come out and get down on other side of the fort. It is
Bhootnath temple complex on the bank of Agastya theertha(lake).
Bhootnath temple |
There are 2 Bhootnath temples. One was looking
not so old. But the one adjacent to the lake was picturesque with the backdrop of golden
colored rocks and the foreground of the lake. It was calm. Entering into a cool
temple from the blazing sun was such a heavenly feeling. These temples are not
live temples. In the Hindu culture any broken image will make the temple
unworthy for worshipping. Even though most of the things look good, a minor
defacing of the idol or broken column has made these temples dead. Bhootnath being the form of Shiva, this temple is also dedicated to Shiva.
Main Bhootnath temple |
After a peaceful rest at the temple I walk
upto the tiny shrines behind the Bhootnath temple. There was a small mantap. Inside
that was a finely carved Ananthashayana which is a form of Vishnu. The rock
itself was different and with dashavatara( Vishnu's 10 incarnations) carved around him was such a rare
image. This stood as my favorite for the day. Few meters
around the temple will unveil few more carvings in the stone. There is another
cave with Buddha image inside. We need to crawl inside to see that. I feel wow
! Badami is such an amalgamation of Vaishnav, Shaiva, Buddha and Jain
architecture. The rocks around this area
has a stains of water flow. My guide told me that during
monsoon there would be few waterfalls . I can imagine how heavenly it would be
to see them.
Anantashayana |
Buddha cave |
Next time when you to go Badami, keep a day
and explore the fort. It is worth. But go there when the sun is smiling at you. I am not a student of history, art and architecture. Even then it was a pleasure exploring Badami. For you, history and architecture lovers, I can promise it would be a feast.
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