Karnataka less travelled- II, 400 years old tree

There are heritage buildings and monuments. Do you know there are heritage trees as well? I didn’t know until I saw this tree in Banavasi. Pilale tree as they call it in kannada local language, is a sprawling  tree spread across more than 2 acres of land amidst the paddy fields stands. It's botanical name is Ficus microcarpa.Standing there from the last 4 centuries, this tree is an abode for several birds and variety of flowers.

Pilale tree from the paddy fields

This Mahavriksha (Mammoth tree) as they call it in the village, is located 7-8 kms away from Banavasi in the village Jade in Shimoga district of Karnataka. It is located in the border of Uttar Kannada and Shimoga districts. We need to walk across the paddy fields for 10 minutes from the main road to reach the tree. 

Branches and branches

 Its branches are too many to count, cutting across each other to form a complicated structure, difficult to explain using my geometrical sensibility. We have a word parampara in Sanskrit meaning coming one after the other without any break. Similarly, these branches are  earth facing. To use a similes it has created a forest with one tree.

Bushy tree

It doesn’t look like a big tree from outside. It looks more of a bush. Off shoots of the branches have multiplied giving the shape of an epic bush to the Mahavriksha.  It is still growing horizontally beyond 2 acres. I was told that the Government is talking to farmers to take up the land around the tree to protect the heritage  tree.

Growing tree

 It was a hot sunny day. Carrying Viha and walking in the field was exhausting. Farmers working in the field asked ‘are you going to see the temple?’  I simply nodded. Brahma Kumar our guide who always was very enthusiastic to show us new places  explained that there is a temple within the  forest tree and villagers consider tree belongs to god. He was from Vanavasika guest house.

When we reached this massive tree we experienced  a sudden change from the hot sun to cool breeze inside this tree forest.

 I wanted to take a walk along the circumference of the tree which apparently takes 30 minutes to cover. As we started walking appreciating the tree, a man with a loud music in his phone enters and walks along with us. He says this land belongs to him. Somehow I was not comfortable to go deep inside the epic tree area with this unknown man. Being a solo traveler, I never go against my hunches. He offered to show temple of a local deity located at one end of the tree. But I thanked him and came out of the canopy. I didn’t want to take risk with kiddo around.

Recently, this tree has been declared as one of the Heritage trees by the Government of Karnataka  under the Bio diversity act of 2002. There are 10 heritage trees in Karnataka. Some are as old as 600-800 years. To protect these  age old trees and pass it on to  next generations is the reason behind calling them as heritage trees. These trees are breathing life from centuries. They have all rights to live for long as long as they can!  I was told Karnataka is the first state to take such an  initiative in the entire country.

Have you ever come across any such granny tree ?I would love to hear.

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Karnataka less travelled - I - Banavasi

Karnataka less travelled - I- Banavasi

Banavasi  name itself sounds so melodious to me. May be I  am biased with Pampa, Kannada’s first poet lived during the 10 century. He describes Banavasi as the most beautiful place. He says ‘ I would like to reborn in Banavasi. If not as a human being at least as a bee or as a bird I would like to be born in Banavasi’. That says a lot about this place. Ever since I read Pampa during my school days I wanted to go there sometime. As I grew and lost in the world of college there after balancing work and  life, I forgot Banavasi. 6 months back when I read about rural tourism being developed in Banavasi it again rekindled my interest. My yearning to go there started. However, I couldn’t make it for few months until last weekend. I traveled there with my 3 year old daughter. This was our first mom and daughter travel. 

Architecture, temples, Pineapple fields, water falls, river, tasty food what more can be expected from a weekend ? That was Banavasi to Viha and me.

Nestled in the western ghats,  Banavasi is a small town ( or I can call it as big village) in the district Uttara kannada. At the distance of 21 km from Sirsi,  Banavasi can be your hub to travel to many more less travelled places of Karnataka.

Literal  meaning of Banavasi is  one who dwells in the forest. To its reputation, Banavasi is surrounded by green forest. It is located on the bank of Varada river. I always admire the good taste of those who named rivers. Look at the names of few rivers around Banavasi- Varada, Aghanashini, Shalmala !!!

The history of  Banavasi goes  back to 350 AD. Yes it is about 1700 years old. It is the oldest town of Karanatka. It was the capital of Kadambas and then Chalukyas followed by Hoysalas, Rastrakutas,Vijayanagar kingdom and Sode ruled Banavasi(I may not be in the right order of rulers).We can see different styles of architecture in many of the temples and monuments. This   amalgamation of many cultures could be due to different dynasties who ruled Banavasi over many centuries. They say that  there were many Buddhist monasteries and Jain  temples. Being from Karnataka  I felt as if I am here in my ancestors place. It is the land of Karnataka’s roots.

Remains  of old fort envelops Banavasi. Most of the places remnants of the fort can be seen. However, It is still intact in few places. 

Madhukeshwara temple is the main attraction of Banavasi. Will write about it separately.There are water falls and many more interesting architectural monuments which are less travelled. Village tourism committee has developed few itineraries around 75 kms. That includes Keladi, Ikkeri, Balligavi, Talaguppa and Bandalike. If you want to be lost in nature, there are water falls like Jog falls and Lucington falls also called as Unchalli falls. We can just take a walk in the forest as Banavasi is blessed with lush forest////. There are a lot of Jaina and Buddhist places. To explore Banavasi and around the places it needs at least a week. There are many artisans in Banavasi.They work on sculpture, wood carvings and and carvings on different surfaces.We can just laze around watching them work or try to learn something from them.

How can I forget pineapple fields of Banavasi? They grow yummy pineapples. March to May is the pineapple harvesting time. I bought a book of pineapple recipes.

My travel was short and I was accompanied by my little one which was restricting my movement.Hence I  could go only to few places.

How to reach ?

Banavasi is located 375 kms from Bangalore.

By Bus – From Bangalore there are plenty of buses to Sirsi. From Sirsi every 30 minutes buses are there to Banavasi. I travelled by Rajahamsa bus which starts from Bangalore at 10.30 pm. This was the only direct bus available.You need to get down after Soraba.Banavasi is after Soraba. Bus continues further to Sirsi.

By Train – Nearest Railway station is Haveri which is 70 kms, Hubli 100 kms and Karwar 145 kms.

By Air – Nearest airport is Mangalore which is 250 kms from Banavasi.

Where to stay ?

I  stayed in Vanavasika guest house. This  guest house is   run by Village tourism committee. They have started with an intention to develop rural tourism. This is located on the main road slightly away from the town. It is a basic accommodation  with no frills. Absolutely no luxury. They could have maintained it in a better way. I was told, It was built few years back and was not operational for many years. From last 3 years it is operational. If they improve the quality of accommodation I am sure it will attract more travelers.

Other highlight of staying here is Brahmakumar ( 9886641496), who is the administrator cum caretaker cum guide. He is a very  helpful person. His enthusiasm in showing the places is admirable. You might be tired of going around but he will not be tired. His ever smiling personality and his energy in showing you interesting places will cover up for all the lacking you find in the accommodation.

Apart from Vanavasika, there are few home stays around this place.

What to eat ?

In Vanavasika guest house they don’t cook. But they take us to local homes to taste local food. I tasted appe huli ( Curry prepared from Mango), Tambuli ( Curry prepared with curd), Talipittu(Rice bread), Todedevu(Sweet) and jowar roti. No, I wouldn’t be able to explain what these are. You got to taste them. Moreover, having your meals with locals and get to know them and their cuisine itself is an experience. Vihaa made friendship with a toddler from one of these homes where I had food and played well with him.

More from Banavasi basket soon..