A Stroll in the Happoen garden and tea ceremony,Tokyo

Ever since my tickets were booked to Tokyo, two things were on priority in my ‘to do list’: Japanese tea ceremony and Kimono wearing experience. Read Asakusa and Kimono wearing experinece

Happoen garden is a beautiful Japanese garden in Tokyo which has a  traditional tea ceremony house. Everything in Japan has a unique feature, whether it is gardens or toilets or escalators it has a strong Japanese impressions characterized by its small size and brevity. I think they believe in the principle of   ‘ small is beautiful’.

Waterbody in Happoen garen

A stream running through the green garden, a small water falls, a traditional tea house, restaurant,  old Bonsai trees, beautifully dressed up Japanese brides busy in posing for photo shoots, garden full of vibrations of celebrations yet maintaining silence…. That was Happoen garden nestled amid the skyscrapers. It has a banquet hall and there were couple of weddings ceremonies. Bride and the family in gorgeous kimonos were  adding to the beauty of the garden.

Japanese bride

Women in Kimonos

I walked through the Bonsai garden. Some of these miniature trees were more than 500 years of age.  Somehow I can’t appreciate Bonsai. For me it always seems that Bonsai is curbing the natural growth. 

500 year old Bonsai tree

Few meters away from where I stood  I could see an old house right on the bank of a pristine lake. The view was soothing and enchanting. Perfect tranquil setting for a tea ceremony.

Winter trees

I spent some time next to the lake which was reflecting the trees around. The autumn trees  were awaiting  for spring to create the  magic of  cherry blooms. I wonder how beautifully this place  might transform during cherry blossom. I could see skyscrapers right across the garden. Yet it was like 100 miles away from the city.

Reflections

When I reached  the traditional tea ceremony house, it was full. People were waiting outside. When it was our turn we entered the house which could accommodate 10-12 people. There were two women in the kimonos welcoming us with a bow. They offered seat. One of the women was introduced herself as the host or tea master who will lead the tea ceremony. Then for the next 10-15 minutes I witnessed  the lengthy procedure of tea making ceremony which looked like a well-choreographed performance.

Tea master

The host started the rituals which  involved many steps. I don’t know how will they remember those small but several hand movements. The other lady in the house offered us sweets. Typical of Japanese size they were tiny pieces of sweets. 

Sweets served in the tea ceremony. Look at the size

It was not supposed to be eaten until host asks us to eat.Then she  continued with the rituals. After cleaning the bowl she asked us to eat the sweet. Then she prayed, performed some purification rituals. Then she added two spoons of green tea into the bowl and poured water. Then she whisked with the same gracefulness. Finally after praying she offered this to the guest seated in her right side corner. The guest is supposed to be the chief guest. Then they offered tea to all of us. Before drinking we were directed to turn the tea cup anticlockwise thrice and also were advised to repeat the same after finishing the tea. This symbolizes   showing respect to the host. Japanese green tea is literally green in colour and made of fine   green tea powder. Tea mster asked us ‘ how was the tea’?  We answered ‘ it was good’ as advised by our guide even though it tasted highly bitter.

Green tea

The whole procedure of cleaning the utensils, purifying , praying  was full of graceful movements. Every movement like  the way  they hold the ladle or pour the hot water was showing gratitude to the natural elements. They call it as Chadou. The literal meaning is ‘the way of tea’ .

 The whole  process is thanking the supreme power which in their case the elements and transferring the gift of the supreme to the guests. I am not sure if I understood it correctly.

All about tea house

I was told there are many schools of tea ceremonies. In the tea ceremony I attended the tea master performed the ritual in a standing position. There are tea ceremonies where they perform it sitting on the ground. May be next time I try a different method.

The ceremony was over after the final silent bow from the host. She stood outside the house. I took leave from the tea house.

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Asakusa and kimono wearing experience in Tokyo

Asakusa is an oldest part of  Tokyo amidst skyscrapers. It lies in the lap of the most modern part of Tokyo and probably that contributes to the charm of Asakusa. Located on the bank of Sumida river this place is still breathing traditional Japanese air.

Asakusa is a district in Tokyo famous for Sensoji Buddhist temple. It is one of the oldest and most famous temples of Tokyo. Its history dates back to 7^th century A.D. I believe even now some Geisha houses are there in Asakusa. It was an entertainment district in Tokyo before Shinjuku and other new districts took over this fame from Asakusa in the later years.

Asakusa street

I decided to spend half a day in Asakusa and went by train. When you are in older part of the town, it's an experience to be cladded in their traditional dress. I wanted to experience Kimono. My guide took me to a place in one of the lanes of Asakusa for hiring the dress. There were plenty of options and she asked me to choose my favorite color. I picked up pink. Then for the next 15 minutes  the lady in the shop was busy in wrapping the Kimono and tieing the ribbons. Before wrapping me in   Kimono, she  checked  with me if i want to use  the toilet as it is not easy to go to toilet  after wearing. She wrapped me in the Kimono and tied me with many  pieces of sash one after the other, making me feel difficult to breath. Wondering the number of layers I ask her for the count. She says ‘there are 27 pieces ‘ !!

I loved the way they make butterfly design in the back with a sash which I guess was about 3-4 meters. They call it as Obi

Obi of my Kimono

Do you know ? One can’t wear Kimono without someone’s support and lot of tying  is required.

I was told there are many varieties of Kimono and it will be different for different ceremonies.  It reminded of my  Indian saree heritage, where one wears different varieties of Sarees for different events. Mine was a simple version. But it is a lengthy process having multiple accessories. Kimono doesn't flaunt the figure but it gives elegant look me thinks.

Then there is hairdo. She couldn’t do much with my short hair. But placed a nice clip with matching flowers on one side. Can I go now ? No.. Kimono  is complete only after white socks and traditional footwear. It was  served. Now I am ready to explore  Asakusa in  Kimono.

Ready to explore Asakusa in Kimono

As we enter through the big gate,  Kaminarimon(thunder gate) with a big red lantern, we can see  the sensoji temple. It is hardly 200 mts away from the first gate. How much time do you think it will take to walk across 200 mts ? 

5 minutes maximum ?!

But I bet you can’t reach. Shops around will not allow you to move. I took more than an hour. As we moved through the gate it opened upto  the temple shopping street, Nakamise Dory shopping arcade. 

Nakamise shopping street is always crowded

There are about 200 shops lined up in couple of rows. Time flies away just like that. You can find souvenirs of all kinds here: T shirts , dolls, trinkets, Kimonos, masks and many more things lure the tourists to stop a while before reaching Sensoji temple. It is very colorful and crowded. I was in Asakusa twice in different time of the day. It was always crowded. I did window shopping. Didn’t buy anything. I generally don’t buy any souvenirs from anywhere.

Incense pot in Sensoji temple

After crossing the shopping street there is a gate which takes us to Sensoji temple courtyard. There is an incense pot. People burn incense here. Smoke of that is supposed to be good for good health.

Sensoji temple entrance with big red lantern

Then I enter into the temple. The legend has it that in 7^th century few fisherman found the statue of Bodhisattva Kannon and temple was  built in reverence to Bodhisattva. However, another priest after him had a dream and got revelation that the statue should be hidden. Even today the statue is not open for public. What I saw in the altar is two statues and a red curtain. I was told that the Bodhisatva statue is behind the curtain and these two statues are guarding that.

Sensoji temple altar

There is a five storied pagoda next to the temple and similar to any other place in Tokyo  the entire temple complex was crowded.

Sensoji temple and pagoda

I then walked around the less crowded roads of Asakusa for some time before I returned my kimono. It was a nice when the locals were stopping by and complimenting my dress. Though there were many other foreigners mainly Chinese  wearing Kimono, my brown Indian skin  drew their attention i guess. Nevertheless I enjoyed every bit of the kind words grinning ear to ear. 

Useful info - 

- Sensoji temple is open from morning till evening
- Asakusa can be reached by subway Ginza line exit
- It can also be reached by Sumida river cruise
- Public toilet available in the temple complex
- No dress code to enter the temple. Photography is allowed
- I hired the kimono from Sakura.They have good collection . Cloths were clean and  in good condition. They have kimono for men as well.

  Have you been to Asakusa ? Pls share your experience