Bidar fort

After my last post about Narasimha Jharni, many of my friends were asking to write about some more attractive places in Bidar. I had travelled there a few years ago. Here I am bringing back my memories about Bidar.

Bidar  is a city of domes and tombs. You will stumble upon one or the other at every 500 meters. I couldn’t visit all of them during my stay for couple of days. Most important attraction of Bidar is Bidar Fort. 

Bidar was the capital of Bhamani Kingdom. Bidar has many layers of history. It was ruled by many dynasties. Bahamanis loved it, Barid Shahi’s invaded it, Bijapur Sultanate attacked it and North India’s Mughal dynasty conquered it. All this happened in 300 years!! (1425 -1725 AD)

Who ruled it before Bahamani's ?

 As per archeological survey of India, Bidar was under the Kalayani Chalukya’s rule(977-1190 A.D), then by Yadavas of Devagiri, followed by Kakatiyas of Warangal , Tughaluqs of Delhi and finally it came in to the hands of Bahamanis. 

There are a lot of legends around it. Some say that Bidar was the ancient Vidarbha mentioned in Mahabhart and other ancient sources. Also, there is a legend that Hindu puranic character King Nala and his darling Damayanti lived here.

Bidar fort was built during the 15 century by Ahmad Shah Bahman when this 9th ruler of  Bahamanis, shifted his capital from Gulbarga to Bidar. After that it underwent as many rounds of modification and fortification as many kings who ruled it. Similar to its layers of past, Bidar fort has layers of defence walls. No wonder it was considered as well protected strong fort then. 

The fort is located very much within the present town of Bidar. You can’t miss this place. You can take a rickshaw from  bus stand, railway station or even  walk. 

I couldn’t make out the shape of the fort. It is very irregular in shape.It had  5-6 entrances when it was in use.It is surrounded by 5.5kms of defence wall. Bidar fort is an artistic creation of many architects and engineers from different countries.We can see influence of Persian architecture in these structures. 

All the structure in Bidar including fort is built with large blocks of stone and marter. Remains of these structures are sepia toned and are very photogenic. So what did I do there in fort ? Got photographed in each and every corner. I hardly have few pictures where I am not there in the frame. ( Sigh….)

  Except  few structures inside the fort, most of the parts are just a few remains. Inside the fort there are mosques, royal baths, royal kitchens, madarasa ,well and many more structures . There is a nice garden as well. Archeology department maintains inner part of the fort. There is a museum inside the fort which is worth visiting. However, I felt Bidar fort is not been given its due importance. Lot of movie in all languages have been shot here. It’s a photographers delight.

If you don’t find time to go to Bidar, watch Ishq Sufiana song  from the movie ‘ Dirty Picture’. This song was shot in Bidar fort and camera has done a good flirting  with this beautiful fort.

While coming back from Bidar fort I wonder, a fort – which was a symbol of royal power, confederacy, conspiracy and treachery then  is now just a curious place for travelers … A place which has witnessed what not is now talked about for how many movies have been shot here.Now whether it is Bollywood or tollywood or sandalwood there is a wedlock between forts and entertainment industry. While the Kings and Queens are at peace in their respective tombs the present day film badashas and begums are engaged in hugging, kissing and sometimes even extending to bedroom scences in their palaces and even at the outer sides of the palaces! And interestingly along with star politicians and star cricketers present day celluloid herores and heroines have become are getting royal treatment from every where.

 Time flows.. In its coursealong with many things of the past  it has also changed  the images and impressions about forts.Original meaning and symbols attached to a fort fades away.

Have you already been to Bidar ? Pls share your experience...

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Narasimha Jharani 

Narasimha Jharani the cave temple in Bidar

Standing in chest deep muddy water in the narrow cave  surrounded by 1000s of people, I wondered am  I going to succeed in reaching  back home or will I be in next day’s  newspaper as a victim of stampede! I was inside the Narasimha Jharani   temple in Bidar.

For me, Bidar was an unexciting place  with unbearable heat. Bidar is a  district located in northern part of Karnataka with Bidar city as its headquarters.  I wouldn’t have visited Bidar but for my colleague's wedding.Sometimes few things happen for good.Once I entered Bidar, it didn’t take much time to realize that I was wrong about my opinion on Bidar.

Bidar has got so much to offer to a wandering soul.Forts,Tombs, Domes,Temples and more. Narasimha Jharani  temple is an interesting unique place. Jharani means stream of water. I was told that it is a temple inside the cave. That is not something new in India.

The world itself is a dark cave resting in the womb of the lord, is an old Hindu mythological saying.It is called deva garbha. But again the creative human mind made its own concept of deva and devis to give many manifestations with different stories. Similarly, the temple structures have many architectural manifestations and wonderful legends.

Narasimha Jharani is just not a temple inside the cave but you need to wade through the water for little over 400 meters to get darshana of  Narasimhaswamy.  He is accompanied by  Shiva Linga.

Starting point of the cave. Crowd started after few steps

 As expected there is a legend behind this. Narasimha is an avatara of Lord Vishnu. He  killed  Hiranyakashipu, to fulfill the purpose of his avatara. After killing Hiranyakashipu, he had another duty to complete to kill demon Jalasura. Jalasura was a devotee of Shiva and he went inside the cave where he was killed by Narasimha. Jalasura took the form of  jala(water) and started flowing out of the cave. Just before taking his last breath Jalasura requested  Narasimha to stay inside the cave. Narasimha agreed. Hence you find both the deities here. The water originates from the unknown spring and flows throughout the year.

It is a symbolic story.Where there is godliness there can’t be asuric forces.So jalasura the asuric energy has to go out is what I interpret.

Along with the wedding ceremony to attend,  we had kept one day for sightseeing. When we heard about this place we were enthusiastic to see the cave.

When we reached there by 11 am, it was crowded. That was a special day of chaitrapoornima ( Special full moon day in spring). It was supposed to be very auspicious day to visit this temple. There was a big queue before entering the cave. We were wondering whether to get in or go back. Finally, decided to enter as we were curious to see the cave.

It was a hot midday.Least we knew what was  waiting for us inside. It took a while to get in. Cave starts here. Width of the cave is about 1.8mt. Height is also less. Bats were  hanging in the roof.. Very  few tube lights to throw some light. There were ducts laid to bring fresh air in. Within few seconds we were walking in chest deep water. It was a  brown muddy water. As we waded through water for few steps it was chaotic. That 1.8 mt path was the only way to come in and go out of the cave. 

Bats hanging to the roof of the cave

We were trapped. Couldn’t go back nor could go inside. After few minutes  we started moving inch by inch for couple of  hours standing in the queue. There was no network to call anyone. There was tension in the air.We could see mob psychology which could burst any time.As always it is clueless.  I realized  how stampede happens  in religious places. Most of us were not carrying our cell phones and camera. Hence all the pictures posted here were taken by my colleague Vittal. He managed to carry his camera.

 

Devotees...Look at the width of the tunnel cave .

We finally reached the end of the cave where the swayambhu idol of lord Narasimha is worshipped. It is believed to be not a creation of an artist. But self manifested one. We find such deities all over India.People believe that such places have positive vibrations and are more powerful than man made temples. It took 2.5 hours  to reach 300-350 mts. We just got a glimpse of the deity and started to go back as there was no space even to stand and people from behind were pushing. Crowd towards the exit was thinning down. Hence, while coming back it was not so difficult to walk through the tunnel cave.

I was told that in normal days hardly  any people come to Narasimha Jharani. 

Outside the temple..Shelters for  devotees

Overall, it was a good adventurous and awesome experience. I would have missed important slice of experience in life  if I had not visited this place. Thanks to Narasimha :-) !!!!

Travel Tips –

1.Avoid visiting during  festival days and summer. You can relaxingly enjoy the nature around the temple on  normal days

2. You can reach Bidar by Train or by bus from Bangalore. It is just 145 kms from Hyderabad

3.There are few hide outs for changing. But not so clean. We can just manage.