Berlin - 25 anniversary of fall of the Berlin wall

While I post this, Berlin is celebrating 25 anniversary of fall of Berlin wall. Wish I could have stayed back to witness this event in Berlin.  I had to come back to catch another flight to Singapore. But, I am glad that I was there this week to see curtain raiser for the celebrations for this big event and to feel the festive mood of the city.

These blue boxes were all around

I had forgotten about the history of  Berlin wall except that I knew there was a wall in Berlin. I am not a serious student of history. But when I saw Berliners being so nostalgic about the wall I was intrigued to know more.  ‘This was  East and  that was west ’ were the most heard phrase during my stay in Berlin this week.

Brandenburg gate.. stage installations in progress behind the gate

The fun part of  any travel is that it takes you to unseen pages of history in our formative years. For those of you like me who would like to know why did they build wall between East and West Germany ? The story goes like this.

After the second world war, West Germany was ruled by US, Great Britain and France. East was under the Soviet Union’s rule. The whole nation was divided between democracy and communism. Within few years of this divide, one could see that both the sides were growing distinctly in different directions. West  Germany was growing economically with its capitalist approach. But East was not making any march forward under communist regime.  More youngsters were migrating to West from East Germany and  East  started to feel the lack of youths in its demography. So communists decided to protect East from West and they raised walls on one fine night. After that  night, for next 25 years people had to be part of the nation they slept that night. Without their approval people of Berlin, became West and East Berliners. It is difficult to imagine the cold war days situation in a globalized world of today.

1961 building  which doesn't have windows towards the wall. Sorry for picture quality

The border was protected with high raised walls, guarded with high alert level of security, secured with automated war equipments. Arrangement was made, ensuring no one escapes from East to West Germany. They went to the extent to close the window of the houses facing the very wall. I saw a building infront of the Wall memorial. There are  no  windows towards the wall for 30 feet high rise building. 

Remains of the Berlin walll

Next question how did the wall fall ?

As per Berliners, the wall fell down on one fine night accidentally the way it was raised. A spokesperson from East Germany got a message to announce to the world that there would be check posts made to allow people move to both sides. However, he was not informed on the rules and regulations of this operation. While answering to the question , ‘when will that happen?’ he unknowingly answered ‘ immediately’. That’s it. Millions of People gathered at gates. Security force was confused. When they tried to get connected to officers they didn’t get any proper direction. To avoid violence, security opened the gate  to create history. People from both the sides entered East to West, West to East. In this way security people protecting the gate at Berlin created history. People celebrated the unification. Some of them started breaking the wall with hammers. The wall started to crumble, and within few days people become one. Since, then the Germans became citizens of unified Germany. 

Pieces of the wall is available as a souvenir to buy from the shops

The Berlin wall pieces for sale at souvenir shop

For non –Germans it is just a wall. Being in Berlin during this celebration week I can understand what it means to them. Some of them could see their family members after 25 years ! Joy that freedom brings is limitless.

Lichtgrenze

As part of celebrations, thousands of Illuminated white balloons were lit all the way for about 15 kms where wall once existed. This art installation is called as Lichtgrenze. I I was told these ballons would be released to air today between 7-7.30 pm on November 9. There was a big stage set next to  Brandenburg gate. There were mock skits all over there. There were LCD screens in all major junctions showing the history of the wall. The world without walls is the vision of many thinkers across the globe. Germans did it in their own way on November 9^th

Kinnaur & Spiti tales-6-Trekking from Demul to Komic

Demul and  Komic are high altitude villages in Spiti valley of Himachal Pradesh. Komic is asia’s highest altitude village with an altitude of of 14,800 ft above sea level. Demul to Komic is a trekking path of 10-12 kms passing through barren mountains.For lazy bones there is a 20kms road to reach by jeep or car.  Three of us with our guide, Cherring started this trek from Demul. First 2 hours was a continuous upward hike. I was behind others as I was at  slow pace while my fellow trekkers were ahead of me.

 It was after about an hour from Demul, when I heard roaring and all of a sudden I saw birds fluttering their wings and  flying away. My legs which were on strike to take even a step started to sprint. It was not a easy job at that altitude to run. I  called out for our Cherring. He didn't respond as he was not at reachable distance for my shout.But he was waiting after some distance to ensure am coming behind them. When he  said the roar could be snow leopard which is very common in this region. I was like ' My good.. I can't even make out in the bushes if it was hiding as they look same color as barren mountains'. But he assured that they move out only in  night  and are too shy. So no need to worry. After this, I tried  to keep up to his pace. I guess, no need to say that I miserably failed. But I realized later it was for good .

Landscape on the way

 A few kms of walk brought us to a meadows which was turning pale as it was the beginning of winter and villagers had taken all the grass to store it for the season. Again I was left behind. I was gasping for breath and had reached a stage that  if leopard stood in front of me, I was ready to surrender without any fight.

Meadows on the way

I took it easy and started taking pictures and walking leisurely enjoying the beauty around. It was again a stark landscape , grey-brown terrain, stunning blue sky, wonderful geological formations and snow peaked mountains at a distance.

Landscape on the way

After 4hrs of continuous walking, started feeling hungry. But my fellow trekkers and guide were ahead of me to stop them. I took a break, ate my packed lunch and laid down to realx. While savoring the soul touching silence and blue sky, in no time I was fast asleep and woke up when Cherring woke me up. He was worried that I didn’t turn up and had come back to find me. But that nap gave me all strength to continue my walk.

As we moved towards Komic village, snow cladded mountain Cho Cho Khanilda emerged out.Apparently it is very difficult to hike this mountain. It needs mountaineering equipments.

Cho cho Khanilda mountain

Do you know the Spiti valley was once, 200 millions years back was a sea ?It is the same place where Thithyas sea existed . We had studied in school that Himlayas are the youngest mountains formed after geological movement. There were plenty of fossils on the way telling the story of Spiti once being sea.

Komic village. You can count the number of houses

After 7 hrs of trekking we reached Komic village.  This is a quaint village with 13 houses and yaks certainly are more in number than people. It was evening. Yaks were reaching home. The sight was like a water color painting  and refreshing tonic after a long trek.

Yaks at Komic village

 This trekking will remain special in my travel diary for the quaint time spent for 6 hrs due to my slow pace and being intimate with the nature and for the ethereal silence that I felt. After all it was Himalayan silence !

Travel tips
Demul and Komic are reachable by road from Kaza
Homestays are the only accomodations available
No network is available in both the villages including BSNL network

Similar posts which might  interest you - 

Kinnaur & Spiti tales - 1- Nako lake

Kinnaur & Spiti tales - 2 - Sea buck thorn  

Kinnaur & Spiti tales - The world's highest post office 
Kinnaur & Spiti -4 - Hike to Dhankar lake
Kinnaur & Spiti - 5 - Mummy lama of Giu village  

Kinnaur & Spiti tales - 5 - Mummy lama of Giu village

Spiti valley means not only stark mountains, monasteries  and  blue sky. But it has  rich culture, mysteries and  legends in it. On the way to Tabo from Nako, along the Spiti river we took a  small detour to reach Giu village. Look at the Spiti river in this picture.Isn't she gorgeous in her turquoise blue ?

Spiti river on the way to Giu village

 Giu village also has an interesting  story like any other Spitian village. Our driver had told that he is going to take us to meet someone very old yet fresh. We were in surprise, when we entered  a small temple where the mummy lama was kept. It is kept inside  the glass chamber and worshiped by the locals. Look at this mummy carefully. It has skin, teeth, nails, hand as if holding rosary and hair. It wasn’t preserved to mummify like Egyptian mummies. No chemicals. But naturally mummified monk of more than 500 years old. Villagers believe that mummy lama is protecting their village in all respects. 

Mummy lama of Giu village

How does it happen ??? Spiti is a land of Buddhist culture and religion. Obviously many monks had lived here and were into  yogic practices.Even now you find monks and monasteries everywhere in Spiti.  Once, famine hit the village. A monk who was meditating in a posture with his chin supported by knees and hands holding japamala(rosary)  had died. May be due to starvation or he was trying to achieve nirvana by continuous meditation and starvation.This is very common in Buddhists and Jain traditions. People here believe that he had sacrificed his body to find a solution to deadly drought. After a few centuries,an Earthquake had slightly dislocated the entire region and  his body  was buried inside the earth.  It was naturally preserved in that cold deserts I guess. 

In recent years when Indo Tibetian  Border  Police(ITBP) was excavating  the area for some construction, they found  ‘him’! Apparently, during this operation, when the axe hit his head, blood came out of mummy’s  nose. We can still see the mark on his skull. For few years it was under the custody of ITBP. But travelers were finding it difficult to get access to see him. Hence, recently, it was moved to the newly built temple. Carbon dating tests of the mummy lama say that  it is older than 500 years ! Further studies have identified mummy as the 45 years old monk by name Sangha Tenzin of Gelugapa order from 15th century.

Having tea with Giu villagers

As we came out after seeing the mummy monk, there was a group of workers having their lunch and tea. When I tried to strike a conversation they enthusiastically welcomed me to their group and offered tea and lunch. How sweet !!  by the time our group also joined me. They gave all of us  tea and rotis from their lunch box. They posed  and were amused by looking at their pictures in our camera. 

Happy moments

Some were too shy. I loved each one’s smile as it was untouched by nuances of modernity just like the Spiti. When we left they didn’t forget to give their address asking us to post their pictures.

Have you come across any such stories ?  Pls share ...

Other similar posts which might interest you 

Kinnaur & Spiti tales - 1- Nako lake

Kinnaur & Spiti tales - 2 - Sea buck thorn  

Kinnaur & Spiti tales - The world's highest post office 
Kinnaur & Spiti -4 - Hike to Dhankar lake